Monday, December 27, 2010

Boxing Day


On Boxing Day I went up the river with my friends Alex and Craig in Alex’s boat.  We met up with my neighbor Colin and some other boats.  Everyone was in the water relaxing and chatting.  Colin played old country music from America and South Africa from his boat.  Some young boys came along in a fiberglass mokoro.  I climbed in and took some photos of the get-together and the boys.  It was lots of fun and I got a little tan. 























































Christmas Morning


On Christmas morning I went to my friend Trace’s church, Bible Life Ministries.  I’ve been there twice before with mixed feelings.  The first time I went the singing was beautiful.  The second time, not so much.  The sermons are always a bit harsh.  One woman spoke about how we must all be “watchmen for our faith.”  We must watch our family, friends, and church fellows for any sign of weakness.  My goodness, what work that would be!  I felt tired just listening to her.  I don’t want to think about anyone’s faith but my own.

This was definitely my last visit.  Some women made catty comments to Trace about her three-week absence from church.  Watchmen!  In my three visits to this church I’ve never once heard anyone speak about God’s endless love, peace, or forgiveness.  Trace also told me that another lady made fun of the length of her skirt, calling it a miniskirt.  It actually covered her knees and was longer than mine. 

The ladies in charge of opening the church were late and we all had to wait out in the rain for them to come.  When this woman did arrive, she being the only other person there to have a car except for me and the pastor, she exclaimed loudly, “You can’t be mad at me.  It’s Christmas!”  Well I was upset with her because I was quite wet and so was everybody who walked from home in the rain. 

Once we found seats inside I noticed two large, modern, and very comfortable looking chairs in the front row with a table in between.  All the other chairs were stackable and plastic.  Trace told me this was where the pastor and his wife sat.  This was a new feature since the last time I had visited over a year ago.  True enough the pastor’s wife came and sat herself down.  She wasn’t a very large woman but had rolls of fat down her arms and around her middle.  Her neck was squashed and her face a bit mannish with a very unfortunate hair do of short, uneven relaxed tresses.  Or perhaps it was just a bad wig.  Hard to tell sometimes.  She wore a traditional lavender dress with a wide, frilly, boat-neck collar with a cursive dollar sign design around the top.  In her defense, as a pastor’s wife, she may not have known it was a dollar sign. 

A man started the service with a short reading about the birth of Christ then proceeded with about forty-five minutes of “praising the Lord,” or what I would call bad singing.  One woman’s rendition of “Silent Night” was taken with many liberties, in both English and Setswana.  Then the pastor, arriving an hour late, gave a sermon about how this was a time of celebration for Christians, and a time of trouble for our enemies.  Really, what ever happened to wishing peace and love for our enemies?  Then there was more singing, and by “more” I mean an hour more.  The woman who came late to unlock the church doors tried to get just the poor, parentless, and hungry children in the back to sing for everyone.  When they proved to be too shy (and probably hungry) the congregation stepped in again to help them but she shushed us and told us to be quiet then tried again unsuccessfully to get the children to sing.  They had only come for the cake and juice to be passed out at the end.  

Trace and I tried to leave after the service but everyone heckled us to stay for cake.  Eventually we left and I asked Trace to please come with me to the Catholic Church next time.  

Tuesday, December 21, 2010

Back in Maun

I'm back in Maun for Christmas and it's just gorgeous here. Days are balmy, nights are almost cool. Everything is green and it rains often. Sometimes the air smells salty, like the ocean is just behind my trees. I don't know where that is coming from but it's delightful.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

Q Train: Manhattan to Brooklyn

I love the Q train.  It crosses the East river on the Manhattan Bridge and there is always a great view of downtown. 

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Holly On a War Rug

This is our old dog Holly.  My father bought the rug in Afghanistan where carpet makers are inspired by helicopters, tanks, machine guns, and ammo.  I have one too here in Brooklyn.

Thanksgiving

I went home for Thanksgiving to be with my parents.  The house is tucked into the base of a small mountain.  One of my favorite walks is taking the stone steps up to an overlook.




























































Instead of walking down the way I came, I walked further down the other side where there is a dirt road and found a path that leads back to the house from the opposite direction.  I love fall days in New England.  The leaves have all fallen down, days are cold but there is no snow yet.  Just lots of sunshine.
























I ended the day with a St. Germain martini in one of my mother's gorgeous cocktail glasses.  We ate smoked trout and chevre cheese before dinner in front of the fire.
























I set the table for Thanksgiving.  My mother has the most gorgeous collection of crystal ever.  It actually looks more appropriate for Easter spring with all the pink and white but I really dislike classic fall colors.  The runner was a gift from my aunt from Guatemala.  We had a lovely time and my mother's food was to-die-for as always.

Saturday, November 20, 2010

Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Saturday, November 13, 2010

Cocktails at the Kempinsky

As usual Katy and I got a glass of vodka at the hotel bar before heading out for dinner. First our bartender flirted with Katy. He asked her if she had any connection to the town in America that is the same as her last name. He lingered by her side peppering her with questions. Then an older businessman came in and immediately started gesticulating at her and shouting across the bar in Russian to her. As we were leaving he offered to take her out on his boat on the Neva river and told she was an 'icon of beauty.' I just had some greasy man stare at me for half an hour until his wife and small child showed up.

Palace Park

This morning Katy and I wandered around the park land around the summer palace. The gardens closest to the palace are quite formal and French in their design, but the further out you walk the more wild and rambling they become. We exploded our buildings, peeking through their windows and crossed bridges over man made streams.

Summer Palace

As always in these royal palaces, gilt and chandeliers abound. The entire palace was gutted inside and out during WWII and it has been beautifully restored.

Me and Katy in the palace

We are sporting paper shoe covers.

Nazi Tour Guide

This is our Nazi tour guide who yelled at us.

Pushkin, the royal summer palace

We drove to Pushkin yesterday to visit the royal summer palace. We checked into our hotel (in the palace, but sooo dreary!), had lunch, then walked back to the palace to walk around. Everyone was sooo mean! The ticket lady glared at us and softened not a little with all our meager Russian. People yelled at us to take off our coats. Yelled again to put paper covers over our shoes. Then somehow we got shuttled onto a Russian tour with the most unfriendly tour guide I have ever encountered. Katy and I learned nothing but what we could piece together ourselves. The Amber Room was amazing and well worth the pain and boredom of taking an hour long tour in a language you don't understand.

Friday, November 12, 2010

Hermitage Museum

Hermitage Museum

I still can't get these palace interiors out of my head. The spaces are breathtaking. I could move in tomorrow.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Hermitage: Day 2

Today Katy and I spent all day at the Hermitage. It was an epic feat of exertion. We saw French art from the 15th-20th century, British art, palace interiors, treasure galleries, gold galleries, diamond galleries, and the 'Hidden Treasue' galleries which aren't even on the museum map due to their controversial history and present state. They are stolen art collections from the Nazis that the Russian army seized during WWII. By far this collection has the best Impressionist and post Impressionist pieces in the museum.

I do believe Katy and I walked through every room in the museum, some two or three or four times. We were run a bit ragged by the end.

Triton

Katy and I went to this crazy kitsch restaurant Triton last night. There is a waterfall inside, multiple fish tanks, sea murals, and an overall cloying fish bowl scent. My Caspian Sea black caviar was delicious but unfortunately it was downhill from there food wise. The bathroom had a toilet tank fish bowl but thank goodness it's just for show. Waves crashing on the beach could be heard from speakers overhead. The restaurant was mostly empty and it was obvious why. Tonight we are off to the ballet to see Balanchine's Apollo.

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Tea Time

After our stroll we had tea at our hotel. The blinis and scones were yummy!

Onion Domes

We came upon this church with the most magnificent 3-D onion domes.

Wandering

This afternoon Katy and I took a stroll around our neighborhood hoping to buy more fur. Instead we just wandered.

Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Disco Taxi

After a very eventful dinner at Palkin we took a taxi back to our hotel on Monday. Our driver had a computer monitor set up and actually used his mouse to find just the right song for our ride. Apparently we inspired him to play Enigma. He also turned on a full spectrum disco light that turned behind our heads. I could not stop laughing the entire time.



Sent from my iPhone

Disco Taxi

After a very eventful dinner at Palkin we took a taxi back to our hotel on Monday. Our driver had a computer monitor set up and actually used his mouse to find just the right song for our ride. Apparently we inspired him to play Enigma. He also turned on a full spectrum disco light that turned behind our heads. I could not stop laughing the entire time.

The Hermitage: Day 1

We started off small at the Hermitage today. First off we couldn't find a map of the museum so we wandered a bit blindly through the Italian and Spanish galleries. The rooms are the most impressive for me so far. The excessively intricate molding overwhelms the eyes. If ever anyone thinks rococo French design over the top, they haven't seen Russia's version.

Monday, November 8, 2010

Fur shopping

We went fur shopping today and I bought a hat and stole. Can't wait to wear it!

Lunch in St P

We had a super yummy lunch today on Nevsky Prospect. We both got borsch soup, a big mushroom blini, and Baltika beer. The menu was in Russian and no one spoke English but with our minuscule vocabulary we were able to get some good food. It all cost about $8 so I hope this balances out our super fancy dinners!

St Petersburg

This is the canal in front of our hotel. St P is like Paris and Florence on steroids. All the buildings are brightly painted, perfectly restored, and very uniform in exuberance.

St Petersburg

The Hermitage is closed today but Katy and I walked by since it's so close to our hotel. This though is a view away from the winter palace.

Saturday, November 6, 2010

Kremlin Church

Mary and Jesus under a cold sky.

Ready For Church

This is me respectfully covering my head for a very cold morning of visiting orthodox churches.

Contemporary Russian Art

Quite the looker, she is. Perhaps Russians are finally over pretty women.

The Kremlin

Katy and I finally made it all through the Kremlin today after a fun night out with American expat friends. We saw tiny, compact orthodox churches with ancient frescos and icons. We saw diamonds and jewels galore from the czars and the church. Then we went to an exhibition about The Lithuanian "Monsters" of photography (one of whom is a family friend) and walked around two gallery districts in Moscow. All in all a very fun, full day of ancient and contemporary art in Moscow. Tomorrow we take the train to St Petersburg.

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Vodka

Katy and I are getting very good at sipping vodka.

Cafe Pushkin

Katy and I had dinner at Cafe Pushkin tonight. It's a gorgeous old restaurant in a Renaissance style building. Katy ordered pork trotters and she got an actual hoof delivered to the table. Everything was lovely and the food was yummy Russian peasant food done up fancy. My favorite!

My Fur Coat

I love my fur coat. I think it's fabulous. (Thank you, Grandma!) Mostly it's too warm here to wear but I always wear it at night.

Katy and I bought bread, ham, and cheese at a gourmet food store near our hotel after a failed lunch yesterday. We sat down at a cute looking cafe and ordered tea and cheese sandwiches. The smallest slice of white bread arrived with a huge slick of butter and a thin slice of cheese all wrapped up in seran wrap. We each ate half out of politeness and embarrassment then paid the bill and left hungry. That's when we found the gourmet food store and made a little picnic lunch in our hotel room. We also bought a small bottle of vodka to sip on ice before dinner.

Brightness in the Dark

Moscow is very dark. Maybe that's why the churches are painted such bright colors.

Wet and Dreary

Today is dark and dreary with a steady flow of light rain. Katy and I braved the weather in the morning to take a meandering stroll around the city. Mostly we just ended up seeing lots of policemen/soldiers who were gathering around protesters and just patrolling the city. Dozens of buses and army trucks are parked on the street full of them. From a distance they look intimidating but up close I can see they are all very nice looking young men.

Wednesday, November 3, 2010

Bolshoi

The lovely restaurant Bolshoi.

Katy

Katy at our first fancy dinner at Bolshoi. The waiters loved us because the first thing we ordered when we sat down was vodka and we tried to speak some Russian.

Caviar!

This is what I wish we were eating all the time here but it's surprisingly expensive, even in the mother country of poached sturgeon.

Moscow!

Katy and I arrived in Moscow on Tuesday and visited Red Square today. We walked through Lenin's tomb and it was mostly pathetic as far as armed tombs go. We had dinner at Bolshoi and had a surprisingly lovely Russian white wine.

Sunday, October 31, 2010

The Russian Consulate

This is the metal cage I had to wait in outside the Russian Consulate on the Upper East Side to get my visa.  A consulate muscle man would emerge from the building and everyone started shouting and waving their arms about to try to get him to let them inside.  Alarmingly I found myself among these people yelling my new mantra, "Tourist visa!  I want a tourist visa!" with my arm in the air.  After an hour I was let inside where I had to present an invitation letter from Moscow among many other documents.  It was a very stressful experience to say the least and I imagine that there are many more to come once Katy and I land in the country.

Hello, Russia!

Katy and I are off to Russia next week and I am very excited.  We had our grandmother's fur coats redone for the trip and I can't wait to start having fur-coat-and-red-lips moments!  This will definitely be my fanciest trip since grandma and grandpa took all of us grandkids to London and Paris when we were teenagers.

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

I have grass!
















I have grass.  This feat of technology over nature, in the form of a borehole pump, would never have been accomplished with out Mopipi.  While I was mostly disinterested, he forged ahead and insisted I needed grass.  Now that I have it I wonder why I ever fought the idea.  Although now Mopipi is insisting I get a lawnmower for these two tiny green patches.  In that he will undoubtedly lose the fight.  One of the nice things about having grass in the desert is that it rarely requires cutting, only many hours of watering.

And now!